Surfing a perfect bank

 I got into my wet suit as quickly as possible. I grabbed my surfboard and ran down the beach, the surf was pumping at Loisels, a paradise up the coast. I started to paddle out. As I was paddling out, Archie got this really good wave and surfed it really well. I was soon out the back, most of my friends were out already. After about 2 mins of waiting, a good wave came though and I was in good position for it ...

I caught the wave, went along it for a little while and then did a nice cutback and then I did a big floater at the end. If your wondering what a floater is, that's okay because I'm going to tell you right now. A floater Is pretty much just going up to the wave and then coming back down. I paddled back out again only to find that the bank had gotten even better!

I caught my next wave pretty much straight as I got out the back, however it wasn't a very good one. I was getting really good waves all morning but then it got to high tide, so I went back in. But after A while I went back out again because it was more low tide by then. I was soon out the back, my first wave was a really good one and so were all of the others after that. 

I didn't go back in until about 2 o'clock. I was lucky that I didn't stay out for much longer because when I got back in I found out that we were leaving. I said goodbye to all of my friends and then we were off home. It had been such a fun weekend - bring on the next good swell!